ピス島の食生活

Piis Island lacks public infrastructure such as running water, electricity, and gas. Residents collect rainwater using gutters attached to their rooftops, storing it in concrete or fiberglass tanks for drinking purposes. Well water is used for bathing, laundry, dishwashing, and toilet flushing. Although the island has no power plant or electrical grid, electricity is generated using solar panels and gasoline-powered generators. Islanders carry smartphones and rechargeable portable music players, and they watch Hollywood movies on compact DVD players.

So, what are the sources of income on the island? The waters surrounding Piis Island are shallow and rich in coral reefs, making them abundant in marine resources. Fishing trips are typically undertaken by groups of 5 to 10 people, and the catch is sold on Weno Island, the capital of Chuuk State. However, the price per fish is fixed regardless of species or size and is relatively low. Moreover, fishing and transporting the catch to Weno incur expenses, such as boat fuel. Other sources of income include salaries from government jobs with the state or village office and profits from operating local shops, but none of these provide particularly high earnings.

The economy of the Federated States of Micronesia is often described as a MIRAB economy—an economic structure that relies heavily on Migration, Remittances, Aid, and Bureaucracy (i.e., public sector employment). In recent years, some have characterized Pacific Island economies more broadly as ROT economies, emphasizing Remittances, Official Development Assistance (ODA), and Tourism. However, in the case of the Federated States of Micronesia, tourism still accounts for only a small portion of the country’s Gross Domestic Product.

The people of the Federated States of Micronesia have the unique advantage of being able to travel to places like Guam, Hawaii, and the mainland United States without a visa, thanks to the Compact of Free Association with the United States. Additionally, they can work in these regions without needing a Green Card. As a result, many migrate to these areas, find employment, and send remittances back to their families and relatives living on their home islands. This system enables the purchase of expensive items such as motors, smartphones, and DVD players, and the availability of remittances from abroad plays a significant role in making such purchases possible.

On Piis Island, the local diet includes a variety of crops, seafood, and meats that are either harvested on the island or in its surrounding waters. These include breadfruit, bananas, yam-like root vegetables such as giant swamp taro and taro, fish, pork, dogs, and chickens. In addition to these traditional foods, imported items like rice, flour, canned fish and meat, frozen meat, and instant noodles are also commonly used. This creates a food culture where tradition and modernity intersect.
The breadfruit harvest season has a degree of seasonality, with many varieties reaching their peak between May and September. However, bananas can be harvested year-round, and some root vegetables, even when reaching their harvest period, do not need to be dug up immediately. They can be consumed within a certain timeframe without issue. By skillfully combining these crops, the islanders are able to maintain a stable and reliable source of energy throughout the entire year.

　On the island, in addition to houses (imw), there are cooking huts called fanang, where food preparation and cooking take place (Photo5). Fuel for cooking is sourced from local materials such as coconut leaves, fruit skins, coconut shells, bracts of flower clusters, and firewood from various trees (Photo6). Oil lamps or portable gas stoves may also be used inside the houses. Except for citrus fruits and chili peppers, all seasonings, such as salt and soy sauce, must be purchased. While homemade coconut oil is sometimes used, most cooking is done with commercially available oils.

Unripe breadfruit, bananas, and root vegetables are often peeled and then boiled or steamed before being eaten (Photo7). A representative dish of Chuuk State made from breadfruit is kon. To prepare kon, the steamed, hot fruit is placed on a wooden platter made from the trunk of a breadfruit tree, and then pounded into a sticky, rice dumpling(mochi)-like consistency using a coral pestle (Photos8, Videos2 & 3). Freshly pounded kon is chewy when pinched by hand, and when eaten, it has a pleasant, elastic texture and taste. If not eaten immediately, the kon is wrapped in several fresh breadfruit leaves and stored at room temperature. After 2 to 3 days, the kon becomes moist, and it develops a slight sourness and a faint fermented smell, likely due to lactic acid fermentation. This gives the kon a different, but equally delightful taste compared to when it is freshly made.

During the peak season of breadfruit, there is often an abundance of fruit, even if consumed daily. To preserve this surplus, a fermented food called apot is made. Traditionally, the process involves digging a hole in the ground, laying banana or other leaves at the bottom, and placing raw, unheated pieces of breadfruit—after removing the skin and core—into the hole. The fruit is then covered with leaves, followed by a layer of sand, and coral is placed on top. After about a month, the apot is ready to be eaten. Since it can be stored for long periods, apot becomes an important food source during the off-season when fresh breadfruit is less abundant.
The preparation of apot begins by kneading the fermented product on a wooden platter to remove any debris and smooth it out. It is then placed in a container, water is added, and the mixture is turned into a thick, semi-solid consistency. The semi-solid apot is wrapped in breadfruit or banana leaves and then steamed in a pot (Photos9, Videos4 & 5). The final product is slightly firmer than “starch paste,” and when taken by hand, it has a sticky texture, making it inevitable to lick your fingers while eating (Photo10). The apot has a dense, chewy texture, with a strong fermented smell and a noticeable sourness.

The seafood harvested both inside and outside the lagoon serves as an important source of protein. Fishing methods include spear fishing through free diving, hand-line fishing, cast net fishing, and trolling. Sea turtles are captured either by catching individuals on the sandy beaches or by using a stick with a hook-shaped tip to grab them while they rest in rocky crevices at night. On nights of the full moon, it is easier to catch coconut crabs and land crabs. As the island is situated on a coral atoll, harvesting of various marine creatures attached to the surrounding coral reefs is common. This includes species such as giant clams, dendropoma maximum, big blue octopus hiding in the reef, and strawberry conch and spider conchs that live in the sandy shallows.

Fish dishes on Piis Island include methods such as grilling over an open flame, deep-frying, making soups, and sautéing. However, let’s focus on sashimi in this case. Sashimi is locally referred to as sashimi as well. For large fish like bonito and tuna, the fish is filleted and sliced thinly, much like in Japan. For smaller to medium-sized fish, however, the fish is often cut into a crisscross pattern with the skin on, and then simply topped with soy sauce or citrus juice (Photo11). Due to the freshness of the fish, it is difficult to tear the flesh apart with your fingers. Instead, people take a bite directly from the fish, carefully aligning their teeth along the bones and scraping the flesh into their mouths. This could be called “teeth-eating” rather than hand-eating!

The flesh of the coconut crab’s enormous claws is quite satisfying to eat, but the shell is extremely tough. Since it’s impossible to crack the shell with teeth, people use coral to pound the claws, breaking them open to extract the meat (Photo12). As for the coconut crab, its most prized part is the innards. The innards is incredibly creamy, rich, and mildly sweet. When poured over white rice, it creates an indescribable deliciousness that’s hard to beat (Photo13).

Now, let me introduce a unique cooking method of the island called “umu” (earth oven). An umu refers either to the earth oven itself or to the method of steaming ingredients with heated stones. A hole is dug in the ground, and several stones, such as coral chunks or pieces of concrete, are arranged at the bottom. Dried coconut fruit skins and other materials are placed on top, and a fire is lit (Photo14). Once the stones are sufficiently heated, the food ingredients are placed on top, followed by banana or taro leaves to cover them. The entire setup is then sealed with sand. After about 1 to 2 hours, the food is steamed and ready (Photos15, Videos6, 7, 8).

At feasts or small parties, umu dishes are essential, and they often feature ingredients like pork, dogs, or sea turtles. As the umu dish is being prepared, people begin to gather from seemingly out of nowhere, drawn by the delicious smells. Once the food is unearthed, everyone eagerly competes to grab it and eat it with their hands (Photo16). When I visit the island after a long time, I’m often treated to a dog umu dish—dog meat is considered a special delicacy. As soon as the cooking is finished, everyone digs in, tearing off pieces of the freshly steamed dog meat with their hands. It’s incredibly hot right out of the umu, and the risk of burning our fingers is real, but no one pays it any mind (Photo17).

Finally, how about soups? Aside from using utensils, my personal favorite, kochu—a dish made by cooking fish in coconut milk with salt—is enjoyed by picking the fish up with hands and taking bites, while drinking the broth directly from the bowl. Alternatively, the fish and broth are poured over white rice and eaten with hands (Photo 18). Even instant noodles are made with less soup, poured generously over white rice, and eaten by hand.

References:
Otsuka, Y. & Yamamoto, S. (Eds.). 2017. An Introduction to Micronesian Studies: The Fascinating Island of Piis. Nanpou Shinsha.
Yamamoto, S. 2021. “Life and Food on a Micronesian Island, Part 1: Daily Life and the Kitchen.” Vesta, 122: 74–77.
Yamamoto, S. 2021. “Life and Food on a Micronesian Island, Part 2: Staple Foods.” Vesta, 123: 72–77.
Yamamoto, S. 2021. “Life and Food on a Micronesian Island, Part 3: Seafood.” Vesta, 124: 68–73.
Yamamoto, S. 2022. “Life and Food on a Micronesian Island, Part 4: Land Animals.” Vesta, 125: 74–79.